Feb 22, 2012

Pear avocado salad

While a pear salad with chicken could be served as a main dish, one with avocado and nuts does much better as a side.  In this case, make the dressing first.  In a food processor, combine:

  • Apple cider vinegar
  • 1/2 avocado (mostly for the oil)
  • Olive oil (because an avocado won't yield enough)
  • Ground coriander
  • Just a dash of cinnamon
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • ~ 3/4 inch of jalapeno
Pulse until that is well combined.  For the salad itself, simply combine:
  • 1/3 bunch of spinach, hand torn
  • 2 pears (bosc and anjou work here as well), cubed small
  • 1 avocado plus the remaining half, sliced or cubed
  • Scant half cup of almond, rough chopped
Dress, toss, serve immediately.  The mild heat from the jalapeno brings out the pears' sweetness, which is further enhanced by the coriander and cinnamon.

Feb 21, 2012

Pear chicken salad

Pears are a great compliment to greens.  Not too sweet, they take dressings well and their grainy structure provides a texture that compliments greens without overwhelming them.  They also seem to be available both during their natural peak season and, say, in winter.

This first variation of the theme is a chicken salad.  To pull off the thin slicing required to keep the chicken manageable, freeze two breasts thoroughly, then place them into the refrigerator overnight to thaw just enough to slice.  In the morning, do just that, then add them to a marinate of:

  • Olive oil
  • White wine vinegar
  • Honey (not too much)
  • Red pepper flake
  • Black pepper
Let that sit for around four hours, preferably near room temperature to let the chicken continue to thaw and absorb the flavors.  When that's done, pour the whole mixture into a covered pan and poach the chicken in the marinate, which will become the dressing.  Obviously you'll want to cook it all the way through as it's now quite contaminated with raw chicken.

While that is cooking, slice 3 pears thinly and place them in a large pyrex mixing bowl.  I used anjou on my first run; bosc seem to work very nicely.  When the chicken is cooked, pour the entire mixture over the pears and toss.  Once it has cooled enough not to wilt greens, add spinach or another lettuce of choice and toss again.  Serve chilled or at room temperature.

Feb 1, 2012

Actually good vegetarian tacos

Vegetarian tacos are boring.  There, I said it.  A rice/bean mixture in a corn tortilla just isn't the most exciting thing in the world even if you've managed to throw together some really tasty rice and some time-tested beans. As it turns out, those do much better in a flour tortilla together, but that's another discussion for another day.

So you get creative.  And maybe you have to throw in an under-appreciated starchy vegetable.  And maybe, just maybe, you've been playing with some of the more esoteric uses of a food processor.  You might come up with something like this.

Part the first: a bean salad.

In a large bowl, combine 2 cans or 1lb of (soaked, cooked, etc) black beans, well-drained.  Throw in a a can of corn.  Perhaps pull out a can of olives, slice that up, and add.  While you're on knife work, dice a red onion finely -- and half a medium jicama, a bit less fine.

Set that aside; it won't need dressing for these purposes and you'll have plenty of leftovers that you can dress as you go.

Part the second: purée.  In a food processor, combine the following:

  • 1 avocado
  • a modest amount of corn or olive oil
  • a dash or two of red wine vinegar
  • juice (and pulp; why not) of 1 lime
  • red pepper flake to taste
  • small amounts of garlic (powder is fine here)
  • a pinch of salt
Blend that puppy until smooth.  If you need a bit more liquid, add either oil or vinegar based on taste and overall texture.  Oh, and if you're making ahead or in a large batch, be sure to retain an avocado pit to keep from browning before serving.

And that's it.  Toast yourself up some corn tortillas, layer on the purée, bean mixture, and whatever loose greens you have around.  You might note that this is not just vegetarian at this point, but also vegan.  Feel free to keep it that way -- or sneak in cheese and yogurt.  And there you go: interesting tacos that don't depend on all the usual ingredients.

Jan 24, 2012

Cilatro-lime rice

For the longest time, Chipotle owned the ciltro-lime rice game. In fact, their white rice is still to die for. The problem? They never quite hit home with their brown rice. But there is a way to do it. This is how. All ratios are normalized for a single cup of rice. Add olive or corn oil to a decent sized pot. Add:

  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • Zest from 1/2 lime
  • Whole cumin
Toast that to extract the flavors into the oil.  Bring to high heat and add the rice.

Shortly after, add juice of whatever limes you used plus water to equal 1.75 cups.  Let the boil down to level, then turn the heat all the way down and steam for 35 minutes (at altitude; 30 might be enough at lower elevations).

Fluff the hot rice, then toss with 1/2 bunch of chopped cilantro and salt to taste.

Jan 3, 2012

A Return: Thai Curry

It's been a full year away.  Kind of amazing, but it was a pretty crappy year so go figure.  All that is fading into the past now, and it's back to cooking.

This is an attempt at a rich yellow Thai curry -- and it worked beautifully.  The flavors could probably be enriched by using tamarind over lime and a Thai basil over Italian, but all that just creates trouble getting it done with a visit to the local store.  And it's actually quite good enough as is.

In a dutch oven, melt 4 tablespoons of butter and immediately begin sauteing 1.5 medium red onions.  Add to that 4 sliced jalapenos, seeds and all.  You could moderate the heat here, but it's Thai -- so don't.  (Also note that these jalapenos are the only source of heat, so don't skimp.)  Dash on both raw sugar and salt here.

As the onions cook through, chunk up 4 or 5 potatoes -- russets worked fine and added to the overall sweet notes to the dish.  Also slice 4 or 5 large carrots.  When the onion is mostly translucent, add those and toss to coat.

While that is cooking down a bit, mince 4 (large) cloves of garlic and an equivalent amount of ginger.  Add those as you can with perhaps a bit more sugar.

When all that is combined, add 1 quart chicken stock and 3 stalks lemongrass (if using dried).  Juice 1 lime into the pot and heat to a simmer.  Keep cooking until the potatoes are done and have acquired plenty of spicy-sweet flavor.

To finish, add 1 can of coconut milk (just go for full fat) and a very generous amount of rough chopped basil.  Serve over rice.

Jan 18, 2011

Garlic chicken tacos

I wasn't going to post this.  I'll admit it.  It was a series of mistakes and random ingredients.  The wife, however, considers this a recipe box and demanded it be posted.  So here we go.

What if you were about to be lazy and make an aglio e olio, having chopped the garlic and all, and then realize you're out of olive oil?

Sigh.

Well, we have corn tortillas and corn oil, right?  Let's do... that.

Well, it turns out we also have ingredients for those wonderful black beans.  Minus the onions and chicken stock, but we have red and water, right?  Perfect.

So we'll dice up a few chicken breasts and then toss them in corn oil with the garlic, add some whole cumin, and then add oregano and paprika as it settles.  Maybe some leftover enchilada sauce?  Absolutely.  Some salt will round that out nicely.  That will all simmer while we're waiting on the beans, which do take a bit longer.

In the meantime we'll find some asadero and maybe some queso blanco and cube that to about 1/8th inch.  Romaine and yogurt should round that out.

When it's all done, quickly get some corn oil hot and briefly toast the tortillas on each side.  And suddenly: dinner.

Jan 2, 2011

Indian dinner

Way back when I just started writing this blog and wasn't sure what to do with it I started to draft some sort of essay on Indian cooking.  Check the archives; it never made it to publication.  Since then I've posted three Indian(ish) recipes, one of which hardly even counts despite having a semi-accurate flavor profile and ingredient list.

Which is all leading up to say: Indian cooking can be tricky.  Forget the ingredients; they're really not that unusual for the most part.  We all know about cumin and ginger and mustard and cinnamon and even some of the less obvious things spices like turmeric, coriander, and even cardamom aren't anything all that special.  In the end dal is just lentils and asafoetida isn't strictly necessary.

And yet it still ends up being somewhat tricky to figure out -- largely because of the process involved.  But rest assured, tricky doesn't mean hard.  Just... tricky.  All the rules about what goes in when and why in French cooking get tossed out the window (note: same is true of most Asian cuisines; it's just that Indian food is also quite different than anything with Sino-Japanese influences).  You end up building your spice profile from the beginning rather than the end, use odd thickening tricks, employ dairy in weird ways... etc, etc, etc.  But once you get the hang of it it's actually pretty hard to screw it up.  At least not too badly.  After trying a few (good) recipes (that actually try to explain themselves) and maybe using some of those boxed spice mixes (and analyzing what's in them and what each ingredient adds) improving becomes relatively simple.

Case in point: new year's eve 2010.  The wife (am I going to get used to saying that sometime?) calls on the way home and requests Indian.  A quick inventory of the kitchen and a run to the store yields:
  • Almost 2 lbs of tri tip (thank god for discount meat but note that there's absolutely no reason to use this if you want to be authentic or otherwise cost-conscious; just replace with boneless skinless chicken breasts if you prefer)
  • 2 yellow onions
  • 3 bell peppers
  • 3 jalapenos
  • 7 red potatoes
  • Chicken broth
  • 1 large can diced tomatoes
  • 1 can tomato paste
  • Olive oil
  • Cumin (whole; this is important)
  • Coriander (whole; this is important)
  • Cardamom pods (always pods; the flavor difference is substantial)
  • Ginger (powder is fine but raw grated is always good)
  • Cinnamon (ground; sticks are fine)
  • Yogurt
  • Rice
  • Salt/pepper
I also had turmeric and a handful of masala blends laying around but opted against them this time around.

Looks viable... right?

Of course.  We'll start with the rice:
  • Make rice
Basically I'd forget to do this until too late if I don't get it in early.  And if it's a little cool by the time you serve it it's no big deal.

Then move on to bigger, better things.  Like building a spice profile and braising a bit.  In a skillet combine:
  • Olive oil
  • Cumin seeds
  • Coriander seeds
Get that HOT.  You want the seeds to be popping and jumping and generally scaring your domestic wildlife.  A little smoke from the oil isn't a bad thing.

In the meantime cube up your meat of choice.  Since mine was beef I felt obligated to conservatively apply salt and pepper.  Brown that in the superheated oil then transfer to a stock pot (along with some of the oil, naturally).

Take the heat down in the skillet, add a touch more oil along with the seeds from a half dozen cardamom pods.  Bring the heat back up a bit until they become pungent and then quickly add onions chunked rather largely and toss until they're just slightly cooked.  Then transfer everything to the stock pot, scraping for all the little bits of goodness left behind from the high heat.

Now you're just stewing.  Add:
  • Bell peppers, also chunked
  • Jalapenos, I like them ring sliced, seeds and all
  • Diced tomatoes with juice
  • Chicken broth
  • Ginger
Bring to a boil and let that simmer together for a few minutes before adding:
  • Potatoes, large chunks
  • Cinnamon to taste -- but don't go overboard
  • Tomato paste to thicken
Stir well, ensuring that the tomato paste is evenly distributed.  That's the only thickener you're using so make the most of it.  You're likely to want to add a bit of salt somewhere in here as well.

And that's it.  Walk away.  When the potatoes are done you have dinner.

Serve in a bowl with layers of rice, stew, and yogurt.  Garnish with cilantro if you're so inclined.

See?  Simple.  The spices toasted at the beginning are the primary flavor modifiers -- and they had to be whole in order to stand up to the high heat without burning.  The secondary spices are more mellow, present primarily to round out the flavor.  The onions are left nearly raw, imparting a very different flavor than the long sweats and browns you're used to.  The jalapenos add just enough heat to notice without being overpowering.  The potatoes take on the flavor of the broth, oil, and tomatoes.  And it all works wonderfully.

But yes, it does take some getting used to.

Jan 1, 2011

Another christmas dinner

Ok, this was actually Christmas Eve.  But the sentiment was there.

Nothing fancy; just meat, salad, and bread.  Well, ok, maybe a little fancy.

First, a compote to go with the meat (and the bread the next day).  In a small sauce pan I combined:
  • 2 cups water
  • 1 cup raw sugar
  • 1 cup cranberries
  • 2 meyer lemons (yeah, I still had some left over)
  • Generous amounts of allspice
Reducing that all together took about 45 minutes.  A bit of arrowroot got it to the proper consistency.

The salad was fairly simple: red chard, cilantro, sesame seeds, cranberries, and mandarin oranges.  If nothing else it was quite pretty.  Dressing went like this:
  • White wine vinegar
  • Olive oil
  • Honey
  • Garlic
  • Black pepper
  • Cayenne (not too much; just a slight bite to offset the cranberries and complement the honey)

    That all went together with a very simple flank steak served after slicing on a bias.

    Pretty and festive.  And delicious.

    Mediterranean fun

    A few weeks ago I ran across a huge sale on meyer lemons (and chicken thighs) and was left with very little idea as far as what to do with them.  So it was experiment time.  In this case I decided to look around the Mediterranean area and see what I could pull together.

    First, the lemons.  I took two, sliced them thin, and brushed them with olive oil.  They went on a baking sheet with half a head of garlic and then in to the oven at about 325 for half an hour.  The lemons ended up slightly browned and the garlic was wonderfully mellow and mushy.

    In the meantime, I dredged the chicken in flour, cayenne, paprika, and allspice and then browned it in an olive oil butter combination.

    Once the lemons and garlic were ready, I chopped them along with kalamta olives and capers.

    I added all the leftover flour to make a roux around the chicken then added everything in with a bit of chicken broth and simmered it down until the sauce was fully integrated and the chicken cooked through.

    This worked wonderfully over pasta and would have done just fine on couscous as well.

    Nice to have a slightly different flavor profile once in awhile.

    Dec 18, 2010

    Split pea soup

    Another in the series of "well, I have this laying around and by the way it's cold": split pea soup.

    Having been informed that maybe lentils again might be overkill and that it definitely wouldn't kill me to dial back the capsaicin for a change it was time to find a new legume to play with.  Luckily, split peas were available by the pound from none other than the kitchen cabinet.

    But of course there was no ham hock.  So at least I got to improvise a bit:

    First, a 1:1:1 mirepoix in olive oil.  Nothing fancy.  A bit of salt helped to draw out the liquid and speed the process and several rough-chopped garlic cloves finished it off.

    In another pan, I browned half a pound of chopped bacon which quickly joined the mirepoix, grease and all.  A pound of kielbasa, chopped, joined everything just before the pound of peas, 8 cups of water, 2 bay leaves, and pepper.

    Forty minutes, more salt, and a generous amount of lemon juice later and the whole thing was actually better than the more traditional method.  Thank goodness for spare bacon in the freezer....

    Nov 19, 2010

    Lentils

    Sometimes I just end up craving lentils.  Not sure why or how, but it just has to happen.  This time of year that means a more western lentil soup; in the spring for whatever reason that tends to be dal instead.

    This time I just went 'sperimenting (again based on what I had around the house).  Worked like a charm, kept in the refrigerator, and reheated perfectly.

    Any good lentils should start with bacon.  In this case, six slices, chopped and then crisped in a stock pot.

    To that, add about six stalks of celery, chopped and the same amount of carrot.  Onions would be traditional here but, well, I didn't have any.  Or any garlic; powder had to do there.

    And then the fun starts: melt all that together along with two diced jalapenos and one red bell pepper (slightly larger bits are fine here).

    In a separate pan, brown a pound of kielbasa and add to the stock pot when maillarded properly.

    Retain the fat, though, and roast another sliced red pepper (and two more jalapenos; why not) in it before adding that all in together.

    Add:
    • about 3/4 pound of lentils
    • chicken broth
    • water if needed
    • balsamic vinegar
    • one can of tomato paste

    Salt and pepper to taste.

    Serve with fresh parsley or mustard greens on top and a dense bread on the side.  Perfect for a slightly chilly day.

    Nov 11, 2010

    Chili con carne take 2

    It's that season again.  And when the pantry is relatively empty it's easy enough just to go with what you have.  This worked out fine and basically proves that con carne is just one of those things you can do just about anything to without messing it up too badly.

    This time, sweat two smallish white onions in olive oil until nice and tender.

    Add in one to 1.5 pounds ground beef (70-30 if you can get it of course; 80-20 works though I wouldn't go much lower than that).  When that's mostly cooked through, throw in (of course) cumin and oregano along with cayenne in relatively equal parts.  Don't worry, the bulk of the heat will come later.

    To that, add:
    • 1 can black beans, half drained
    • 1 can pinto beans, half drained
    • 1 can great northern beans, half drained
    • 2 cans tomato paste
    • 1 can chipotle in adobo, chopped
    Mix that together adding water as needed.  Garnish with cilantro (or parsley as that's what I had and it worked fine) and cheese of your choice.

    Relatively quick, dead simple, and quite hardy.  Plus, well, hot.  Chipotle in adobo tends to lend itself to that quite well.

    Aug 27, 2010

    Mmm zuchini season

    Just stir fry them.  Trust me.  And make them as hot as you dare; sriracha and mongolian hot oil, I'm looking at you.

    That is all.  Off to play with porks.  More later, methinks.

    Aug 17, 2010

    Simple bean/chicken salad

    Well, mostly simple.  The actual prep is just a tiny bit time-consuming (if half an hour counts) but it's very good.  Especially for coming out of a can.

    Basic idea: throw together some beans.  Make them taste good.  Make sure you have plenty of protein going so it's a full meal or more.  And make sure it's a complete protein or two.

    Basic salad

    And I mean really basic.  Five cans.  Oil.  Vinegar.

    First, drain a can of diced tomatoes; retain the sauce in a bowl.  You're going to have the colander out anyway; just drain the juice into the bowl.  Crush the tomatoes by hand a bit.

    Combine in a large bowl:
    • 1 can black beans, drained and washed
    • 1 can great northern beans, drained and washed
    • 1 can garbanzo beans, drained and washed
    • 1 can corn, drained (no washing needed)
    • 2 celery stocks, finely cubed
    • Chopped parsley; flat leaf if you have it
    • Tomatoes without the juice
    • Olive oil
    • Red wine vinegar
     And that's your basic bean salad.  Get that in the refrigerator.

    Chicken

    I used two breasts to balance this and it seemed to work.  Marinate in:
    • Red wine vinegar
    • Orange juice
    • Red pepper flake
    After about half an hour, toss that in a pan, cover, heat, and more or less poach it.  When done, cube/shred and add to the salad, tossing well.

    Rice

    Prepare rice as normal, except:
    • Use the reserved tomato juice to replace some of your water
    • Add coriander
    • Add one bay leaf
    Very hearty.  Best served cold.  Makes a great summer meal.

    Aug 8, 2010

    BLTs

    Sometimes simplicity wins out.  For me, this often has to do with it being before noon (aka breakfast time), but it can obviously carry on throughout the day depending on your priorities (and the ingredients, of course).  And some classics just call for it.

    So, BLTs.  Two versions here, both dead simple in their basic form.  They're definitely toaster oven fare once you get past the bacon itself (and I don't actually object to resorting to a microwave here even if it does come off better in a cast iron skillet every single time).  But the idea remains the same: pick a flavor profile, add a minor twist, and enjoy.

    Version one
    1. Cook your bacon
    2. Toast a split bagel under a broiler, tossing on a grated hard italian cheese halfway through
    3. Add either sliced or diced tomato
    4. Add bacon, chopped works well here
    5. Add a green of your choice; I like spinach but an actual italian green would do very well
    6. Layer on alfalfa sprouts (or whatever bean sprouts you happen to have around; mung is particularly nice for the added crunch)
    Asiago bagels are an obvious choice here, but onion, garlic, everything, etc all work fine.  As does plain, really.  Just make sure you crush down the top once you're done layering; they become quite unwieldy without some manual encouragement.  Cut in  half and enjoy.  Maybe make two if you're hungry or, ahem, want to use a whole tomato.

    Version two

    Closer to my heart, of course.  This is the simple version.  If you just happen to have fresh-roasted green hatch this might be the best BLT in the entire history of mankind.
    1. Again, cook bacon, slice or chop it
    2. Toast a fairly hearty bread
    3. Melt a thin layer of cojack on the bread; again, using a toaster oven is easiest here
    4. Add sliced, canned green chile
    5. Layer your tomato, in this case chopped probably is better
    6. Add your choice of lettuce; again I like spinach but romaine isn't bad
    Slice.  Eat.  Make another.

    If you wanted to go crazy you could, I don't know:
    1. Replace the bread with a sopapilla, stuff the ingredients, make sure you're using good chile, and smother in a red sauce.  But then, that would be complicated, wouldn't it?
    2. Just  use a tortilla to wrap said ingredients, making sure to chop the bacon, and call it a BLT burrito.  Maybe even add a salsa or guacamole to finish it.
    But now we're straying back into complicated, aren't we?

    (For the sake of completeness, I should link to a post from Farmgirl Fare on pita in general and another great option for BLTs that I've always wanted to try.  Baking at altitude, especially if you're inept in the first place, has proven a problem.)

    Aug 6, 2010

    So you have some apricots

    The family got some apricots from some very nice neighbors who have had the tree for years and only this summer decided to produce fruit.  Lots of fruit.  Way too much to use; they've been giving it away like crazy [ed. many inappropriate similes considered and rejected].

    But they're not exactly the tastiest in the world.  I mean, they're good.  They're just not omgwtf wonderful.  And did I mention there are lots of them?

    So, we cook.

    Apricots, apricots, searching...  No, we're not going to make a jam or a desert or anything overly sweet.  Just not my thing.  And we're not doing pork.  Mainly because I can't find any in the house.

    But wait.  Let's think about traditional pairings.  I mean, I'm pretty sure apricots are used all over south asia and the great middle east, right?  (Wikipedia says yes and much, much more.)  Ok, so let's think about, say, Iran.  Maybe Turkey.  What would compliment a mild pear-like fruit...

    Pistachios.  Just stay with me here; this is about the point where my brother declared that either the proposed dish or I were "weird".

    We have a high-sugar, medium-flavor fruit.  We need it to shine.  Something rich with a nutty yet still slightly sweet taste?  Perfect.  Plus the oils are delicious; otherwise almonds would do the trick.

    So let's do this thing.

    Combine in a food processor:
    • 18 or so apricots, cored
    • About a ramekin of shelled pistachios, washed several times if salted
    Whir together.  10 1-second pulses are fine; you don't need to feel obligated to pulverize the pistachios.  You definitely want to get rid of some of the excess salt though.

    In the meantime, start heating a decent sized sauce pan with a bit of oil (olive is fine).  Also, start thawing some chicken if need be.

    Once the oil is hottish, add the seeds of three cardamom pods, maybe four or five cloves, and a very small number of cumin seeds, in that order, waiting for each to become fragrant before adding the next.

    [Tangent, not required for the recipe at all: this is actually an entire idea based on a decidedly non-French style of cooking.  We're toasting spices, not aromatics.  The aromatics come in later and are left either stewed or nearly raw.  It's just a different way of flavoring things and if you're serious about making food that resembles anything from persian to indian and even further east into parts of China, get this technique down.  Through lots and lots of experimentation.]

    Once your spices are toasted, add the apricot slurry.  Reduce heat and add:
    • White or rice vinegar
    • Sugar (if needed; if the apricots were quite sweet omit this)
    Slice your chicken (two decently sized breasts or so) in thin strips then add that.  Let that cook while the sauce reduces and caramelizes a bit.

    After half an hour or so, add a sliced onion and a medium to large tomato cut into about 16 parts.

    And walk away for awhile for the whole thing to simmer down so the sauce can permeate the chicken and reduce further.

    Serve with rice and some sort of salad, possibly with pita.

    6.0221415 mashed salad

    Umm.  Chemistry jokes are in right now, right?











    Ok, so no.  So this is guacamole.  If you've never done it yourself, fix that. If you have, learn to go for minimalism; avocados are in season.

    For some magical reason, the local grocery store has ripe avocados on the shelf.  This, for the record, never happens. Most avocados are firm and slightly, umm, bitter?  At least when you buy them.  But apparently right now they're just slightly soft and perfect for just slicing into, which is good, because I wasn't about to give them enough time to ripen to that state.

    So, a very, very basic guacamole.  Combine in a suitable bowl:
    • 2 ripe avocados, type doesn't really matter as long as they're about medium sized, but do reserve one pit
    • 1 roma tomato, diced
    • Juice of 1 lime
    • Either some very finely diced garlic or two or three dashes of powdered garlic
    And that's it.  Just stop.  Don't add onions.  Don't add anything to heat it up.  It just isn't needed.  A good guacamole should bring out the avocado flavor, not smother it and use the guacamole as an agent.

    Mash by hand.  It's actually fun if the avocados are ripe; they squish like playdough.  Make sure everything is well-combined, wash up a bit, and then serve with chips or whatever else.

    _____________________
    On the title?  It's a pun.  That is all.

    Aug 4, 2010

    On knives

    Keep them sharp.  Especially for onions.

    Yeah, it hurts.  I'll live.

    Jul 26, 2010

    Carne adovada

    I'm not sure why I haven't written this up yet, but it's well past due.

    Carne adovada.

    As far as I can tell, this is a pretty localized dish from north-central New Mexico but has migrated out a bit.  Sadie's used to be the standard.  Back when it was a little hole above a bowling alley the food was so good that it got in the way of bowlers on a good night.  Then they actually bought a full space and it was still good.  But I haven't had theirs in years and I've had to make do with my own.

    The basics are simple: you're going to make pork as hot as you can with a red paste or sauce and then, pretty much invariably, add raw onions.  Huntley Dent has done his research and has broken down the basic dish into two categories: wet and dry.  Wet means a nice red sauce that can be eaten with tortillas; dry is more of a rub than a sauce and is meant mainly for the meat itself and not as a sauce.

    But there are many more variations.  Is your pork (and it's always pork) sliced thin or cubed (1-2 inches isn't uncommon)?  Does the flavor come from the sauce or the meat?  Do you spice it or just let the chili speak for itself?

    If I'm at a diner in, say, Espanola, I'll take cubed any time.  I don't know what they do to it to make the flavor permeate and I'd rather not speculate.  But a breakfast with carne adovada, hash browns, and tortillas is to die for if you find the right place.

    But.  If you're doing it yourself, here's a basic recipe for a wet, thin-sliced dish best served with tortillas.

    In a food processor, combine:
    • 1 medium onion
    • Several pinches of cumin
    • Double the cumin with oregano
    • 3 generous tablespoons of white vinegar
    • 1 package of hot to very hot chile powder, preferably Chimayo but any will do if it comes to it
    • Cayenne if you want more heat
    • Water until you have a paste
    And then slice your pork.  Thin, please.  Something like 1/8th inch.

    Also, onions.  Sweet is good here, so if you can get vidalias, good.  Otherwise standard yellows are fine and whites are okish if you're going for maximal effect of the hot.

    Layer the pork slices, then onion, then sauce in a baking dish (pyrex is best here).  A second layer is great.

    And then let that sit.  For at least 12 hours.  Preferably more.

    To finish it, bake covered in foil at about 325 for half an hour then remove the foil and return to the oven for another half hour.

    Shred both the pork and the onions and serve that in flour tortillas with cilantro and whatever else you'd like in the mix.  Pico de gallo is good here.  And if you did it right, have water on hand.  Lots of water.

    Jul 25, 2010

    Avocado/tangerine salad

    Simple as can be.

    Chop:
    • 1 avocado
    • 2 tangerines
    • A decent amount of goat cheese
    • Two handfuls of almonds
    Combine that with spinach.  Dress with:
    • Sesame oil
    • White wine vinegar (rice wine vinegar would work here too)
    • Ground ginger
    • Garlic powder
    And that's it.  The flavors blend extremely well what with the sweet from the tangerines and almonds, the sour goat cheese, and the various spices (plus whatever it is that avocado has).  The textures work well varying from the crunchy almonds down to the almost melty cheese and avocado.

    In a large enough batch this could be a meal.